A wine journey along the banks of the Main

Franconia is beautiful, but for the stranger, regardless of whether he comes from Zurich, Vienna or Hamburg, some things need to be explained, such as the behavior rules Number one: never call a Franconian a Bavarian! Politically, Franconia belongs to Bavaria, but the Franconians are far from being Bavarian. Where, if you please, is there wine in Bavaria? Flow through distant Munich Isar and Oktoberfestflow through Franconia main and wine.

This is how idyllically one sits and dines in the inner courtyard of the romantic hotel »Zur Schwane« in Volkach.

© Hannes Niederkofler

Buntsandstein and Pinot

Let’s start ours pleasure tour in Churfranken – that one tipwho once belonged to the Electorate Mainz belonged. A trip to Main without visiting the city of Klingenberg would be like a trip to Paris without the Louvre. The art you would miss in Klingenberg is made of red sandstone. Generations of winegrowers have enjoyed the breakneck steepness Castle Hill fortified with colored sandstone blocks, which were quarried nearby and which, by the way, were also shipped down the river to Frankfurt and used there for buildings such as the Römer.

The Klingenberger Schlossberg is so warm that winegrowers tried Bordeaux varieties as early as the 19th century. The star has always been the Pinot Noir. Today he is perhaps better than ever, and that despite the global warming cooks the grapes on the steep slope. But the knowledge is greater than ever: not least thanks to a winemaker who has always been just as happy to share knowledge as he is to acquire it: Paul Fürst only has the “cooler” and classically fine ones Pinot Noir from his home town of Bürgstadt to an international level, and then the fuller ones from Klingenberg. Anyone who is able to visit the winemaker and his son Sebastian not only gets excellent wines but also an introduction to one ideal-typical Basic feature of the Franconian nature, which means: keep the ball flat. International success hasn’t gone to the Fürsts’ heads, they don’t know airs and graces. Of course, they don’t always have time to personally greet visitors, but when they can, they’re happy to do so, and their down-to-earth humility means you leave the farm enriched, even apart from the wine.

You can also eat excellently in Churfranken, and Klingenberg is also a place of pilgrimage for hobby cooks: Ingo Holland, who died shortly before the editorial deadline for this issue, began trading in spices of the highest quality and masterfully composed mixtures in 2001, and his son Kilian is now continuing this work.

© picture provided

Franconia’s center

In the journey upstream you can see the spectacular steep slope of the Homburger Kallmuth not to be missed. Prince Löwenstein cultivates not only the vines but also twelve kilometers of vineyard walls. From here, Franconia is Silvaner-Land. Riesling and Pinot Noir are also cultivated on a smaller scale, but gradually Würzburg, in Franconia’s viticultural center, one drives because of the Silvaner. The city of 130,000 still shines in the splendor of the prince bishops, and the successors of the king and clergy still rule over the vines today: most of the vineyards belong to them Juliusspital, Hofkeller and citizen hospital. The “big three” share the famous Würzburg stone almost completely.

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While the main seat of the Hofkeller is in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Residenz built in the 18th century, both hospital wineries with wine taverns invite you to feast. the gastronomy is in any case one of Franconia’s strong points: Here in every price range and cooked in every style with pride and ethos – the Franconians are too big connoisseurs themselves to join the culinary to slip. There is hearty home cooking of excellent quality and refined star cuisine with international flair.

after one city ​​stroll it’s time for the proverbial »bridge shop« on the car-free Old Main Bridge. Young people like to sit down with you Bocksbeutel and brought glasses on a small wall, older people visit one bridgehead and the »Alte Mainmühle« inn, which is partly in the river. In one case or another, it will probably not stay with one glass.

Even the pretty ones wine villages upstream from Würzburg – Randersacker, Sommerhausen and Sulzfeld, for example – are worth a visit, and they share it with Würzburg shell limestone in the ground that weeps smoky notes gives. The character of the wines changes near the so-called “Mainschleife” near Sommerach, Volkach and Escherndorf silkier and a little softer, with the famous Escherndorfer Lump accompanied by rock flour notes. In this part of Franconia, which is densely blessed with wineries (and very good cooperatives), it is particularly worth »hedge farms« To keep an eye out: restaurants where the winegrowers invite you to dine. Since every business is only open a few weeks a year, a Online-Terminfinder good services.

Andrea Wirsching gave the traditional Iphoef winery impetus and new ideas.

© Volker closet

Franconian dry

And what does it actually have to do with the »Bocksbeutel« on yourself? The name alludes to the fact that the shape of this bottle corresponds to that Hodensack of the billy goat resembles. The bottle was probably created as a replica of a type of canteen. And even before the invention of glassblowing, there was the »Bartmann mug« made of earthenware, whose flattened variants could also have been the inspiration.

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The last subregionwhich we want to visit, is a little off the Main, at the height of the Steigerwalds. On the edge of the pretty town Iphofen is where the Knauf gypsum plant is located – also under the vineyards Gipskeuper. This soil gives the wines a characteristic pepperiness – especially if they are “Franconian dry”. This means that the wine instead of the nine grams legally permitted for the designation “dry”. Residual sugar maximum four having.

It is almost imperative to use this expression »Franconian dry« on the mood of people to transfer. Then Dampfplauderer the Franks are not, sometimes rather laconically. But if you listen carefully, it’s stuck much ulterior motive in her reserved nature. Just like it is the case with the Silvaner.

»Reisers am Stein«: Dining with a view of the vines of the Würzburg Stein.

© Stefan Bausewein


Gasthaus Zur Krone Family Restel
Game dishes, excellent wine list, beer garden, guest rooms.
Miltenberger Strasse 1, 63920 Großheubach,
T: +49 9371 2663,

Hotel Weinhaus Stern
Creative in a smart way, patio. Hotel.
Hauptstrasse 23/25, 63927 Bürgstadt
T: +49 9371 40350,

Hotel and Restaurant Anchor
Style and ambition, great wine list. Vegetarian Menu. Hotel.
Kolpingstrasse 7, 97828 Marktheidenfeld,
T: +49 9391 60040,

Reisers am Stein
Until spring 2023, Bernhard Reiser will still stand for creative, modern cuisine with a classic background.
Middle Steinbergweg 5, 97080 Würzburg,
T: +49 931 286901,

Old Main Mill Inn
river view. Also a pavilion near the water.
Mainkai 1, 97070 Würzburg
T: +49 931 16777,

Bürgerspital wine bars
Tradition meets modernity: Blaue Zipfel, Schäufe(r)le, falafel with shrimp and avocado. Estate wines.
Theaterstrasse 19, 97070 Würzburg,
T: +49 931 352880,

Juliusspital Weinstuben
Historic rooms, varied cuisine: smoked trout fillet from the fisherman, vegan basil fregola.
Juliuspromenade 19, 97070 Würzburg,
T: +49 931 54080,

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Kuno 1408
Chic interior, modern cuisine: a star in the “Hotel Rebstock” (see “Hotels”).

Restaurant Philipp
The star-awarded kitchen speaks French, the wine list Franconian. A double room and two suites.
main street 12, 97286 Sommerhausen.
T: +49 9333 1406,

Michel’s star
Owned by the Michel family since 1920. Extensive wine list.
Bahnhofstr. 9, 97340 Marktbreit
T: +49 9332 1316,

Hedge Farm Finder

HOTELS (See also »restaurants«)

Best Western Premier Hotel Rebstock
Würzburg’s best hotel. Old building, stylishly renewed.
Neubaustrasse 7, 97070 Würzburg
T: +49 931 30930,

Located at the top of the Würzburger Stein site. Nice rooms, restaurant.
Reußenweg 2, 97080 Würzburg,
T: +49 931 97020,

Romantic Hotel zur Schwane
Historic building, some rooms have coffered ceilings.
Hauptstrasse 12, 97332 Volkach
T: +49 9381 80660,


Pinot Noir that is reductive and needs ripening.
Wilhelmstrasse 107, 63911 Klingenberg am Main
T: +49 9372 2438,

Winery Rudolf Fürst *****
International class Pinot Noir. The whites are also excellent. Hohenlindenweg 46, 63927 Bürgstadt,
T: +49 9371 8642,

Winery Fürst Löwenstein ***
Mineral Silvaner and Rieslings.
Schlosspark 5, 63924 Kleinheubach
T: +49 9371 9486600,

Winery Rudolf May ****
Perfectionist operation, full-bodied Silvaner aged in barrels.
Im Eberstal 1, 97282 Retzstadt,
T: +49 9364 5760,

Foundation Public Hospital of the Holy Spirit ****
120 hectares of first-class locations, a haven of tradition and continuity: in the past 180 years, just six different directors have been active.
Theaterstrasse 19, 97070 Würzburg,
T: +49 931 35030,

Weingut Reiss **
Distinctive Silvaner from the Würzburg stone.
Unterdürrbacher Strasse 182, 97080 Würzburg
T: +49 931 94600,

Winery Bickel-Stumpf ***
Silvaner vinified for freshness and play, some with noticeable residual sweetness.
Kirchgasse 5, 97252 Frickenhausen,
T: +49 9331 2847,

Winzerkeller Sommerach eG **
195 hectares cooperative, excellent quality tops.
Zum Katzenkopf 1, 97334 Sommerach,
T: +49 9381 80610,

Winery Rainer Sauer ****
The Silvaner Pope from Escherndorf.
Bocksbeutelstraße 15 , 97332 Escherndorf
T: +49 9381 2527,

Winery HORST Sauer *****
The sweet wine pope from Escherndorf.
Bocksbeutelstraße 14, 97332 Escherndorf
T: +49 9381 4364,

Princely Castell’sches Domain Office ****
The brilliant Silvaner GG only comes onto the market after 5 years of maturity.
Schlossplatz 5, 97355 Castell,
T: +49 9325 60160,

Winery Hans Wirsching ****
Long-lasting wines (dry white and occasionally sweet) from Julius-Echter-Berg.
udwigstr. 16, 97346 Iphofen,
T: +49 9323 87330,


Old Spice Office
After Ingo Holland died at the beginning of June 2022 at the age of 64, his son Kilian continued his father’s life’s work. Holland founded the spice trade in 2001 and gave up its star restaurant for it.
Fruehlingstrasse 37, 63911 Klingenberg,
T: +49 9372 9481090,


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