Glenn Martens, creator of Y / Project invited us Monday at the foot of the Montparnasse tower, a stone’s throw from the somewhat outdated shopping center of the capital’s most unloved monument. Martens is a manitou of deconstruction, of the mixture of materials and eras (80s and 90s). His fashion is postmodern, made of allures and centerpieces of the female and male locker rooms that he remastered with great ease (a beige and red tracksuit is transformed here into an elegant set to wear in the evening, a beige suit jacket in low-cut bodysuit).
He also dissects jeans, one of his favorite materials, freeing him in particular from his zipper to display a V-neckline worn high waist (one of his leitmotifs since his last fashion show) and leaving a thong (integrated) to exceed . He keeps pants only his belt which becomes a simple strip of jeans – sexy – which emphasizes the waist. Martens mixes a denim jacket with marked shoulders and pants worn over an awesome spindle in faded black jeans, scalloped across the front of the leg. An outrageous set completely manageable when the pieces are worn separately. He structures “soft” pieces like the neckline of a cherry red mohair sweater and gives what he brings a “3D effect” using piping to a Prince of Wales print jacket. The Belgian designer (he is from Bruges) speaks to a young generation with hybrid tastes allowing themselves to all excesses, seeking elegance even in pop pieces.
Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation