Fashion week: fashion with raised fists

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Marine Serre, neither was anyone else able to predict the coronavirus and its consequences. His fashion, however, has the air of forecasters, with asperities protective masks integrated in some cases into a hood. The French woman’s work has been focused from the start (she launched her brand in 2017) on the ecological disaster that promises to be apocalyptic here.

Marine Serre fashion show. Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation

Presented at the Centquatre, in the north of Paris, its parade resonates strangely with the current health crisis. Once again, Marine Serre favors the use of recycled fabrics (winter sports sweaters, faux fur inserts, striped blankets of South American inspiration), coming, for some silhouettes, from the furnishings and carpet in particular.

Its favorite print – the crescent moon – is mixed with black Lycra on a bias cut gipsy dress (one of the leitmotifs of the collection). The numerous dresses are a mixture of puffed sleeves, frills, fluorescent colors. Another motif appears on several occasions: the salamander (whose largest specimen of the recently discovered species is already endangered). It is used to cover the skin as a whole. Because Marine Serre does not strip anyone this season. His models (of all stripes, accompanied by children to conclude) seem to venture without fear into obscure territories and troubled times.


Marine Serre fashion show. Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation

Maria Grazia Chiuri always wants to be more literal to present her ideas. For Dior (LVMH), for which she designs women’s ready-to-wear, she this time took the duo of visual artists Claire Fontaine, with whom she says she shares “A passion for the history of feminism and the need to put the key moments in the emancipation of women first.” Their collaboration appears in pro-women slogans that flash like old advertisements above the room where the models parade: “Consent”, “Feminity beauty is a ready-made”, “We are all clitoridian women”, “Patriarchy = Repression”, “Patriarchy = CO2“. Newspaper pages the world completely cover the ground (Claire Fontaine did the same with Release last year).

In Paris, February 25, 2020, Firstlook Dior at the Jardin des TuileriesDior fashion show. Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation

The collection begins in sobriety on a feminine-masculine note (a black suit with a crossed jacket very slightly marked at the waist and worn with a tie), sobriety that it will keep until the final salute. The whole indeed navigates between several axes – but the same relaxed elegance – and periods (Maria Grazia Chiuri explores like so many other the archives of the house) without ever going beyond the framework, extravagance is not invited here.

We liked different silhouettes: a black woolen jumpsuit, a leather dress with a high waist and beautifully sewn pockets on the chest, a long flowing dress covered with polka dots, the looks of a schoolgirl wearing the pleated skirt and the tie. We also saw dresses with fine fringes (not what we prefer), many – too many – scarves on the head in a pirate style, and boots with a rubbery appearance that go, it is proven, with everything.

Dior fashion show. Photo Lucile Boiron for Liberation

Marie Ottavi

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