Having become the perfect parade for landless winegrowers, it allows talented young shoots to revitalize the most ossified areas of the venerable French vineyard.
He was one of the first to restore the image of Burgundy merchants, in a department of Yonne with landscapes as sinister as a gray winter morning in Lorraine. After betting on the opening of a natural wine bar in Troyes, Nicolas Vauthier launches, conquering, in the purchase of grapes, on the underestimated terroirs of Épineuil, Irancy and Coulanges, vinifying splendid cuvées without chemistry, displaying the motto Viti Vini Vinci, which has become the name of the estate. Further south, in regions of Beaune where buying plots requires the intervention of generous donors or a few gold louis under the pedal, more and more of them are turning to micro-trading, selecting perfect grapes in the sometimes futile waiting to acquire a piece of land.
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Local grape varieties and southern grapes
Among the most emblematic of this new guard, Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott (photo), at the head of the Chanterêves estate, whose cuvées continue to gain in prestige over the years. Not far from there, in the bucolic Maranges, the AMI duo pushes this philosophy even further, seeing in the trade the double advantage of being able to vinify juices from prestigious appellations, from Volnay to Saint-Romain via Pommard, but also to dare bold blends where local grape varieties and southern grapes mingle.
In the cellar, vats and barrels display in chalk letters the adulterous blends of Gamay, Grenache, Syrah, Aligoté and other Pinot Noir. By freeing themselves from any entrenchment, these traders of a new kind protect themselves from the anguish of a debt ratio that would make the European Central Bank waver, and also prepare themselves to face the cruelty of the climate, ranging look elsewhere for something to fill the vats left empty by a bloodless vineyard, struck down by terrible episodes of frost. Contrary to a makeshift solution, a new way of looking at the profession is emerging, giving priority to freedom over the outdated comfort of property.
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