Traffic is clogged with dozens of black vans and sedans whizzing through the city far and wide, with who knows who on board. Many hotels are fully booked despite the skyrocketing prices, on the street it is easy to spot VIPs and influencers, the shop windows are polished and the insiders in raptures. From time to Milano there was no such atmosphere of frenetic ferment. In fact, Fashion Week returns from 20 to 26 September. The calendar is super crowded, just like the streets of the center: 210 appointments with 68 fashion shows, of which 61 physical and 7 digital, over one hundred 130 presentations scheduled. But not only. Between fashion shows open to the public, debuts, returns and anniversaries, truly intense days are ahead, with programming that puts even the most hardened fashionistas to the test. Not to mention all the “collateral” eventssuch as the inauguration of the highly anticipated exhibition of Richard Avedon at the Royal Palace. But let’s go in order.
For sure you know that it starts with a flourish Max Mara and closes in glamor with Armani eh Green Carpet Fashion Awards. There are those who choose to show for the first time in front of the general public, triggering many discussions on the concept of democratic fashion, such as Diesel e Philosophy; and those looking to give a new imprimatur to the traditional parade. For Ermanno Scervino it is the return to normality (“Hoping that it is not just the illusion and euphoria of the moment”) and parades between the columns of the magical cloister of San Simpliciano, considered the most beautiful cloister in all of Milan.
Multiple great returns, from Boss a Vivettapassing through Salvatore Ferragamo (the new creative director is expected at his debut Maximilian Davis) and Antonio Marras; but also the debuts on the catwalk, like that of Viviers and Durazzi Milanfrom Matty Bovan, supported by Dolce & Gabbana; by Filippo Grazioli from Missone and the Swiss brand Bally with Rhuigi Villaseñor. The first collection of Marco De Vincenzo, recently appointed creative director of Etro. Time for exclusive presentations, however, for Weekend Max Marain collaboration with Lily Neverand for Max&Co with the Anglo-Nigerian designer Duro Olowu. Tod’s shows for the first time and is preceded by a grand event at the Pac museum in via Palestro with the exhibition “Aria d’Italia”, subtitled “Contemporary Italian Lifestyle”. New entry for the Spring / Summer 2023 collection Luisa ViaRomathe online sales giant, strong in the media boomerang of Charity Grand Gala at the Certosa di Capri with concert by Jennifer Lopez.
As per tradition “King” Giorgio Armani is on the calendar with a double appointment: Thursday 22nd for Emporio and Sunday 25th September with the Giorgio Armani line, the same that now finds space in the brand new boutique that the designer has just inaugurated in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the Milanese “living room” par excellence in the shadow of the Madonnina. Over 300 square meters furnished with the refined taste that distinguishes the Armani style, promises an exclusive shopping experience. All fans of vintage e second-hand instead, they will be able to purchase accessories and evening dresses donated by the Ambassadors of the Cnmi Fashion Trust through the Be Sustainable Wear Preloved project. An initiative born thanks to the collaboration between Camera Moda Fashion Trust e Tearosewhich reflects the commitment both to the theme of sustainability and to the new generation of designers as the proceeds will go to various future projects in their support.
There is also something to keep an eye on in this Fashion Week Cormium, brand founded in 2019 by Jezabelle Cormio, which reworks the Tyrolean world in a contemporary way. Ready to amaze the stylist / artist Antonio Marras from Philip Plein (which after Paris and New York returns to show in Milan). Great return, after a little absence, also for the stylist and activist Stella Jean and Disquared2, much loved by the influencers. Special mention for Act N.1, with the stylistic duo who will see their show hosted live on Valentino’s Instagram channel. Benetton will mark the debut as creative direction of the new designer Andrea Incontri. Among the presentations not to be missed – in addition to the giants of Made in Italy tailoring Kiton and Borbonese and the excellence of the leather goods of Serapian – there is that of The story, young brand attentive to sustainability issues that produces bags with biodegradable, organic, recycled and regenerated materials. Luisa Beccaria returns to parade, Sunday 25, at the Rimessa Fiori next to his atelier in Brera and makes use of the spectacular choreography of Patrick Kinmonth which has just made its debut at the Teatro La Scala with “Il Matrimonio Segreto”. Luisa with her daughter Lucilla do not want to spoil the surprise but assure that it will be something different from the usual catwalk with models: “The suspension of recent years has given way to second thoughts. It gave us the opportunity to reflect on different ways to propose and bring fashion to life, evolving the traditional format – explained the designer -. I think it’s time to think about more emotional and engaging contents than the classic catwalk “.
Saturday 24 not to be missed the fashion show-event in Piazza Duomo for Moncler’s 70th anniversary, while on Thursday 22nd another “birthday” is celebrated, that of Preview: for its 30th anniversary, the brand has organized a “zero impact on green” catwalk visible to anyone who will walk in the park of the Arena Civica, in Viale Venice, at the corner with via Legnano. Also on Thursday the highly anticipated opens its doors Richard Avedon’s exhibition at Palazzo Reale “Relationship”, a tribute to one of the masters of twentieth century photography who traces his over sixty years of career through 106 images. If you are passionate about photography, as well as fashion, we recommend that you also take a trip to the other side of the square because in via Mengoni the new Leica Store with an exhibition entitled “A sound mind in a sound body”By the photographer Stefano Guidani, an artist capable of shooting a social reportage now and a moment later a glossy cover. In the Sozzani Foundation, on the other hand, “The Witness, Climate Change”, the photographic project by Max Vadukul on the effects of climate change.
The last day, Monday 26th, is dedicated exclusively to digital fashion shows, historical brands such as Byblos and Laura Biagiotti. And eyes on Sharpen Swords (for him it is art that merges with fashion) and for Sindiso Khumalo, South African born in Botswana and winner in 2005 of “Vogue: Who is Next?”. She designs hand-woven fabrics using water color and collage, all in a sustainable way. Sponsored by Dolce & Gabbana the 30-year-old New York designer Matty Bovan, her elaborate crochet creations are a must-have among fashionistas. And foreigners don’t come to Milan just for Prada, Gucci and Armani but also on the hunt for new talents. We from FqMagazine we have already set our sights on Lara Chamandia young Lebanese designer about whom we tell you everything here, e Veronica Leoni of Quira.