Peak in retail trade expected in 2021 according to BAK

The Swiss department stores Manor, Jelmoli and Loeb are starting to offer their customers the possibility of acquiring second-hand fashion products, whether in the luxury segments or at more affordable prices.

Driven by consumers and more restrictive regulations for the textile sector, the second-hand market is expected to develop strongly over the next few years.

Manor, in collaboration with the French company Tilt Vintage, has opened a store in Geneva and Basel in particular where customers can buy clothes and accessories already worn, some of which date from the 1960s to the 1990s.

“We are convinced that protecting the environment includes this kind of initiative, among other things. As the transformation of the fashion industry has begun, there will be more better quality and second-hand items in the store. future, ”Delphine Perruche, woman’s fashion manager at Manor, told AWP.

Two kinds of clientele are particularly interested in this kind of item: young people looking for more sporty brands called “streetwear” and older fashion lovers looking for special pieces. “They are 15 to 60 years old and ecology is an important topic for them”, relates Ms. Perruche. The prices of the products on offer vary between 25 and 150 francs, and t-shirts and leather clothing are among the most popular items.

“We would like to extend this offer to other Manor department stores, but we are still looking for space”, continues the manager before specifying that currently Manor has 500 second-hand references spread between Geneva and Basel over 45 m2.

However, the manager points out that the lower margins in the second-hand sector compared to new clothes can be a brake on the expansion of this category of products.

Strong growth despite the pandemic

The department stores Jelmoli in Zurich and Loeb in Bern have for their part decided to work in particular with Reawake, a Zurich boutique specializing in the second-hand luxury fashion segment.

“Even though we started our collaboration with Jelmoli in the midst of a pandemic in March 2020, Reawake is developing very well,” said Rea Bill, the founder of the brand.

“Before this partnership with Jelmoli, I had a shop where I was alone with two collaborators while now we are a team of more than 15 people”, details the one who also occupies the role of general manager. Many people also come across the store by chance while strolling through the department store on Zurich’s busy Bahnhofstrasse.

On the shelves of the store, we find, among other things, handbags from major brands like Hermès, Christian Dior shoes or Chanel jackets. “The average basket per purchase is over 500 francs”, confides to AWP the teacher by training who started her career as a model.

The company works with two categories of customers, mostly women: those who sell their “treasures” and those who want to acquire the rare pearl that is sometimes no longer found on the brand’s shelves.

Reawake generates revenue via the commissions collected: 50% for products sold up to 2,000 francs, 40% up to 4,000 francs and 30% from 4,001 francs. Per month, the firm now processes 1000 to 2000 articles. Some 3,000 people have so far entrusted their property to the young shoot.

Faced with the success with Jelmoli in Zurich, Reawake has just established itself in the premises of Loeb in Bern. “We have also received requests from French-speaking Switzerland and perhaps in the coming years we will be there too”, hopes the entrepreneur who also points out that more and more people are sensitive to the environmental aspect of products. second hand.

Growing sector

According to experts at US asset manager Columbia Threadneedle, the global second-hand market is expected to double over the next five years to reach $ 77 billion and be twice as large as that of “fast fashion”, under l impulse of consumers, especially the youngest.

In the luxury segment, the importance of second-hand products is also set to grow, whether in fashion or watchmaking, for example.

Currently, a very small proportion of the clothing manufactured is recycled and reused, most ending up in scrap or incineration within the year of manufacture. The fashion industry is therefore one of the most polluting in the world: it emits more CO2 than air and sea transport combined.

Faced with this situation, the European Union is seeking to get out of the throwaway and wasteful economy by setting binding targets for the textile industry by 2030 and 2050, reports Columbia Threadneedle.

This article was published automatically. Sources: ats / awp