"The cooking is a language to tell stories»Says chef Joan Roca. And the stories now in vogue in the world of gastronomy bet on the essential, the sustainable, without too many pyrotechnics. It is the driving idea of the edition of Real Seguros Madrid Fusión inaugurated this Monday, summed up in the concept of «simplicity meditated». A Basque chef, Josean AlijaHe was the first to put music to that score, and tomorrow will be Elena Arzak and Andoni Luis Aduriz the soloists. Basque chefs have been starring in the idea that "less is more". To follow the trail through Madrid Fusión is to discover the different aspects of the gastronomic event organized by the Vocento group.
A gastronomic congress has some film festival. While the presentations speak in the auditorium of simplicity, the halls of Hall 14 of Ifema, new and largest headquarters of Madrid Fusión, are a tailor's box that mixes the kitchen passions. Martín Berasategui It only gives one presentation a year and it is in San Sebastian Gastronomika, but in the Madrid event it is deployed to serve everyone. This Monday he presided over the contest of "snacks with cheese" that made a separate with the Peruvian Gastón Acurio to exchange news that participated in the tribute paid at the inauguration to José Carlos Capel. The gastronomic critic, alma mater of Madrid Fusión, received the recognition of the chefs at an inauguration in which the president of the Community of Madrid, Isabel Díaz Ayuso, also arrived from the final of the Super Cup in Saudi Arabia. "I like to be an ambassador for all Spanish cuisine, not just Madrid," said the president.
Roca's intervention was the best summary of the spirit of the congress. The cook told, as if it were a movie, how the menu served by El Celler de Can Roca had been to the world leaders gathered in Madrid in December at the 'climate summit'. «Instead of imagining a menu with our classics, we made some dishes with a message, also of 'less is more', in defense of sustainability and a more humane and supportive world”. The name of the menu was clear: 'The land is running out'.
Alija, a longtime exponent of that "essential cuisine" from her restaurant Nerua, in the Guggenheim in Bilbao, spoke about products and the importance of time in the kitchen, symbolized in one of the most common dishes in houses: the fried egg. "Simplicity is the most absolute complexity," he said before claiming himself as "a radical, which allows me to continue making fun cooking."
A deer in the backstage
You bet on the essence, but sometimes the essence can be a shock. A group of Japanese photographed the deer hanging on a small crane that was pushed in the 'backstage' of Congress Gloria Lucía Martín and her companions at the restaurant El Empalme de Zamora. In the afternoon he presented a paper on "mycology and kinetics" and brought the huge deer from home, as a stark example of 'verité cuisine', far or not, from the talk about artificial intelligence applied to the kitchen offered in a room neighboring Dabiz Muñoz, from Diverxo, with a display of cameras behind. Andoni Luis Aduriz will speak on that subject tomorrow.
The Guipuzcoan chefs They maintain their strength in the congress. In addition to the acclaimed Berasategui David de Jorge, he was used in depth in the 'selfis' with his followers and Iñigo Lavado and his faithful squire Ramón Aramburu prepared the dishes of the VIP area, with the cheeks as a star in the year of the search for essences . Edorta Lamo, from A Fuego Negro and now embarked on the ambitious project of Arrea, in the Deep Alava, also has a leading role in the presentations, such as Donostiarra Mayre Modrego, Eurotoques coordinator.
José Mari Aizega, director of the Basque Culinary Center, and Roser Torras and Javier Yurrita, responsible for San Sebastian Gastronomika, held conversations in a cosmopolitan Madrid Fusion that has Benjamin, Lana, president of the gastronomy division, at the forefront of Capel. of Vocento, and Iñigo Iribarnegaray.
Roca says that cooking, like society, passes from science to consciousness. Gastronomic congresses tied before for their advances in techniques, but techniques are now subordinated to ideas and to a society concerned with sustainability. The change comes to the menus, in the haute cuisine and in the daily ones.
That photo of the new kitchens
José Carlos Capel recalled on Monday the creation 18 years ago of Madrid Fusión and a foundational photo that summed up the spirit of the congress well: an image in which the popes of the French nouvelle cuisine are mixed, the creators of the new Basque cuisine, with Juan Mari Arzak and Predro Subijana in front, and the faces of the then emerging Catalan cuisine, with Ferrán Adrià and Joan Roca. According to Capel, that renewal and mixture of cultures continues to encourage a Madrid Fusion today framed in the gastronomic division of Vocento.