Lanvin is playing the long game. As the storied menswear house celebrates a century in the field, artistic director Peter Copping isn’t chasing trends; he’s building a legacy. The fall collection, subtly linked to his women’s pre-fall line inspired by Jeanne Lanvin’s 1920s Venetian sojourn with her niece Marianne, feels less like a seasonal drop and more like an intentional curation of timeless style. This isn’t about fleeting relevance; it’s about establishing Lanvin as a purveyor of enduring elegance.
- Copping draws heavily from Lanvin’s archives, incorporating elements like Fortuny pleating and vintage textiles.
- The collection features a shift in footwear, moving away from the Curb skating shoe towards lighter, more versatile options like the new Lnv2 sneaker.
- The presentation itself – a showroom styled as a gentleman’s living room – reinforces the brand’s commitment to sophisticated, lived-in luxury.
The cleverness here lies in the details. Copping, who previously focused on interiors between fashion gigs at Oscar de la Renta and Balenciaga couture, understands the power of setting a scene. The showroom’s styling – a weathered hoodie casually draped over an Art Deco chair – isn’t accidental. It’s a deliberate attempt to humanize the brand, to suggest a lifestyle rather than simply selling clothes. The nods to founder Jeanne Lanvin’s eccentric tastes (ocelot fur on bathroom fixtures, now displayed at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs) are particularly astute. They inject a touch of playful personality without undermining the overall sense of refinement.
The collection’s embrace of plush textures – particularly the velvet jacquards from the centuries-old Venetian textile firm Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua – speaks to a commitment to craftsmanship and quality. Reserving these luxurious materials for jeans and jackets is a smart move, making high-end artistry accessible without sacrificing its integrity. And the subtle ’80s influences – asymmetrical sweaters, animal prints – prevent the collection from feeling stuffy or overly reverent.
The quiet evolution of Lanvin’s footwear is also worth noting. The house is actively “weaning itself off” the Curb skating shoe, introducing a lighter iteration and the new Lnv2 sneaker. This signals a strategic pivot towards a broader audience, one that appreciates style but isn’t necessarily defined by streetwear. It’s a calculated risk, but one that could pay off handsomely if the Lnv2 gains traction. Ultimately, Copping isn’t just designing clothes; he’s building a brand identity, one stitch, one pleat, one carefully curated detail at a time. The question now is whether this slow-burn strategy will resonate in a market obsessed with instant gratification.
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