Cormac O’Brien: The Rising Logger Who Captivated Malibu and Inspired a New Film
The ocean has a way of revealing talent. Last summer, deep in the lineup along the Baja coastline, one surfer consistently turned heads. A slight figure, barely a teenager, with sun-bleached strawberry blond hair, he moved with a grace and power that defied his size. Weighing perhaps 110 pounds, he fearlessly tackled overhead waves and navigated a rocky shoreline, surfing leashless and effortlessly switching between goofy and regular stances. It was a performance that demanded attention.
I only learned his first name that day: Cormac.
Months later, a familiar flash of blonde hair appeared on Instagram. There he was, fluidly cross-stepping to the nose of his board, executing a hang ten, and then powering through a turn with the strength and precision of a seasoned veteran. The raw talent I witnessed in Baja hadn’t diminished; it had evolved.
That initial encounter was a year ago. Since then, Cormac O’Brien has earned his driver’s license, journeyed to the legendary waves of the North Shore, competed in the Loggerhead competition, and released a series of captivating edits and comedic skits alongside friends like Jake Richards and Nick Terrazas. His unique style and fearless approach quickly gained notoriety, even sparking controversy during a run of summer swells in Malibu. Rumors circulated that he faced potential expulsion from the local lineup, but a staunch defense from none other than surfing icon Joel Tudor quickly silenced the critics. Tudor, reportedly, urged Cormac to ignore the negativity and continue pursuing his passion.
Now, Cormac’s story is the subject of Wanted: A Cormac O’Brien Surf Film, a project directed by his close friend and frequent collaborator, Jake Richard. The film will premiere on November 1st at Aquatech Glassing Factory in Hermosa Beach (7–9 p.m.), with boards from Tyler Hatzikian available for purchase.
The Making of “Wanted”
Cormac has ridden Hatzikian boards for years, his preferred shape being a double step-deck 9’3″ that he affectionately calls “magic.” He also incorporates shapes from Matt Grote, complementing a style deeply influenced by longboarding legends like Al Knost, Tommy Witt, Mike Purpus, and, of course, Joel Tudor. Cormac’s admiration for these surfers is evident, even playfully manifested in his spot-on impersonations of Al Knost.
Born on the Central Coast but raised in the South Bay, Cormac benefited from the guidance of his own accomplished surfer father. During a recent conversation with Cormac and Jake, still buzzing from a summer of filming, contests, and near-controversy, their infectious energy and shared passion were palpable.
Archyworldys: Did you ever experiment with performance shortboards?
Cormac: “No, that wasn’t even an option. My dad was like, ‘you can’t ride those things 90% of the time around here.’”
His father’s wisdom clearly resonated, though he now boasts a diverse quiver, including numerous bargain boards acquired online. Many of these eclectic shapes make an appearance in the film, particularly in “2007 Explorer,” a segment filmed by Jake shortly after Cormac obtained his license.
Archyworldys: What was it like when you finally got your license?
Cormac: “Oh man, so good…”
Jake: “Yeah, but it was kinda sketchy too. He almost hit a few cars, but luckily everything was okay. We ended up making an edit just from those two or three days.”
The pair share an easy camaraderie, a creative synergy where one idea seamlessly sparks another. Their connection began at the Loggerhead competition, where Jake captured a stunning tube ride by Cormac. Months later, a chance encounter at the airport solidified their partnership.
Cormac: “We were both heading to the North Shore solo, hoping to connect with someone. We ran into each other at the airport and were just relieved. I figured I had a surfer, and he had a filmer – it was a perfect match.”
The Malibu Controversy
Archyworldys: Tell us about the summer and what unfolded in Malibu.
Jake: “It was crazy. We got so much incredible footage in just a few days that we knew we had to make a film. But the real twist came when… Cormac, do you want to share this part?”
Cormac: “Yeah, so I’d been surfing Malibu a lot in May and June, and you know how it is – it’s Malibu. It’s a zoo, and I definitely burned a few people (laughs). When I was younger, Tommy Witt told me, ‘If you’re surfing Malibu and you don’t have armpit hair, you can drop in on whoever you want.’ I don’t know if that still holds true, but I still don’t have armpit hair (laughs).
After that run in May-June, I spent some time filming in Mexico with my friend Stu, who shot everything on his Handycam. When I returned, I was surfing Malibu with my dad, and we caught a wave together. I ended up in front of him, and we were playfully yelling at each other. My dad fell, and I kept going. Afterwards, a guy paddled up to him and said, ‘I can’t believe that kid, he’s been doing that to everybody, he’s ridiculous.’ My dad played along, and then the guy revealed he was with the Malibu Surfing Association and they were considering banning me from Malibu.
My dad just laughed it off, but it quickly spiraled. I told my friends, thinking it was hilarious, and one of them made a poster announcing my ‘ban’ from Malibu. That’s when Joel Tudor saw it and wasn’t happy…
I got a call from Joel, through his son Judah, who’s one of my best friends. He said, ‘Yo, my dad wants to talk to you.’ I was immediately nervous. Joel told me, ‘Hey, I just want you to know. Don’t listen to any of those people.’ He went off, completely fired up, saying, ‘none of them are even from Malibu, and they can’t surf for shit. If you have any problems, just let me know…’
He started coming up to Malibu frequently with Judah, and we all surfed together. I think Joel related to the situation because he faced similar challenges when he was younger…
Archyworldys: That’s an incredible story. How did it all come together after that?
Jake: “We knew we wanted to make a film, and Cormac wanted to incorporate Stu’s footage. I had the idea to weave it into a narrative about him ‘fleeing’ Malibu, which worked perfectly with the Handycam aesthetic. You’ll have to check it out…”
What does the future hold for Cormac O’Brien? Will he continue to push the boundaries of longboarding, challenging conventions and inspiring a new generation of surfers? What role will Malibu play in his ongoing story?
Frequently Asked Questions About Cormac O’Brien
Cormac’s style is a blend of classic longboarding techniques, influenced by legends like Al Knost and Joel Tudor, combined with a fearless and playful approach. He seamlessly blends traditional maneuvers with modern flair.
“Wanted” will premiere on November 1st at Aquatech Glassing Factory in Hermosa Beach (7–9 p.m.). Further details about online availability will be announced soon.
Joel Tudor publicly defended Cormac after a dispute in Malibu, urging him to ignore criticism and continue surfing his own way. He also frequently surfed with Cormac, offering mentorship and support.
Cormac primarily rides longboards shaped by Tyler Hatzikian, with his go-to board being a double step-deck 9’3″ that he calls “magic.” He also utilizes shapes from Matt Grote.
Jake and Cormac first met at the Loggerhead competition, where Jake captured a standout tube ride by Cormac. They reconnected at the airport while both traveling to the North Shore.
Love him or hate him, Cormac O’Brien is a force to be reckoned with, and his impact on the surfing world is only just beginning.
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