The hardest part of walking the length of NZ? Maybe the loneliness

Walking the length of New Zealand on the Te Araroa trail brought unexpected emotional challenges alongside the physical demands, according to memoirist Naomi Arnold.

Emotional Toll of Solitude

Arnold’s memoir, Northbound, details her eight and a half month journey along the trail, and the profound loneliness she experienced. Interviewers consistently ask about the solitude, which she describes as “relentless and profound,” and is reflected in the book’s subtitle: “Four Seasons of Solitude on Te Araroa.”

She often found herself overwhelmed by loneliness while hiking, sometimes physically reacting by hunching over and hugging herself. Arnold recounted experiencing this even while speaking at the Auckland Writers Festival in May, realizing she was repeating the physical gesture during a discussion.

Arnold found it difficult to connect with people due to her loneliness, and even struggled to participate in group settings, such as a rongoā Māori wānanga on the Whanganui River. She found herself unable to enter a room full of people, despite wanting to.

Upon returning home, Arnold experienced panic in crowds and found eye contact disturbing. She had not previously experienced loneliness, enjoying her own company and the presence of her dog.

Loneliness New Zealand identifies both physical/social isolation and emotional isolation as forms of loneliness. Emotional isolation is characterized by a lack of meaningful connection with others, regardless of physical proximity.

Arnold attributes her loneliness to being simply alone, without anyone to process her experiences. She describes Te Araroa as a “psychic shock,” lacking the companionship to share the difficulties of the journey. She found it difficult to convey the depth of her suffering in brief texts to friends.

Research from Loneliness New Zealand indicates that loneliness is highest among people with “other” sexual identities, those with disabilities, the unemployed, solo parents, and Māori individuals. Northland is the loneliest region in New Zealand, but loneliness is a global issue driven by factors like migration, urbanization, and decreasing birth rates.

Arnold found that reconnecting with existing relationships helped alleviate her loneliness, as did embracing solitude. She also discovered the importance of connecting with oneself, and recalled experiencing moments of joy during her hike, such as encounters with wildlife and beautiful sunrises.