‘Waves break right on to the bus windscreen’: a car-free trip along County Antrim’s dramatic coast | Northern Ireland holidays

The Antrim coast in Northern Ireland offers a sustainable travel experience even in winter, with opportunities for bracing sea dips, exploring historic castles, and enjoying the rugged landscape.

Coastal Exploration and Historic Stays

Ballygally Castle, celebrating its 400th birthday, provides a “Sea Dips and Hot Sips” package including dry robes, hot-water bottles, and flasks. The 17th-century castle offers doubles from £88 room-only, with the package starting at £155.

Reaching the Antrim coast without flying or driving involves a multi-stage journey, including three trains, two underground stops, two buses, and a ferry from Liverpool to Belfast (foot passengers from £38 each way, cabins from £35). Rail travel from London to Liverpool costs approximately £20-25 each way for advance tickets.

Wild Landscapes and Local Flavors

The surrounding landscape is characterized by wild greenery and accessible transport links, with Larne offering a railway station and regular ferry connections to Scotland. Inside Ballygally Castle, guests can enjoy hot baths, log fires, Irish beef, chowder, and warm wheaten scones. Breakfasts feature porridge with Waggle-Dance honey and Bushmills whiskey.

A hike up Sallagh Braes, a basalt amphitheatre, reveals views of Antrim’s wooded glens and the sea towards Scotland. The cliffs have been featured in Game of Thrones and The Northman, and the area is home to standing stones, sheepfolds, and bronze age barrows.

Castle Visits and Coastal Paths

Glenarm Castle, a 15-minute bus ride up the coast, is the ancestral seat of the earls of Antrim. Guided tours are available by appointment with the castle butler, George Lynn. The walled garden reopens in spring with a tulip festival in May.

A walk along the coast path leads to Portstewart, with a sunrise view over Portrush harbour. The Gobbins cliff path, due to reopen in 2026, is accessible from Ballycarry station. The Portrush Adelphi hotel, recently refurbished, offers rooms from £152 a night and features juniper-laden gin miniatures from the Basalt distillery.

Nearby attractions include Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge (£7.50/£15 for children/adults), the Giant’s Causeway, and the Bushmills whiskey distillery, all accessible by bus. Louise McLean offers basket-making workshops from her studio on Rathlin Island.

This trip was partly provided by Tourism Ireland with accommodation provided by Ballygally Castle (doubles from £88 room-only; Sea Dips package from £155). More information at ireland.com