Seiko Expands Presage Craftsmanship Series With Enamel and Urushi Dials

The Laurel Legacy and the Urushi Contrast

The 1913 Laurel holds a unique place in history as the first wristwatch produced by Seiko and the first made in Japan. To honor this, Seiko introduced the Presage Classic ‘Craftsmanship’ Enamel and Urushi Laurel Dial models. The enamel version features a clean white dial with Breguet numerals and a signature red marker at 12 o’clock, while the Urushi version utilizes traditional Japanese lacquer for a dark, black tone that contrasts with gold-colored accents across the case and timing scales.

Structurally, the Urushi model adds a gold-colored super hard coating to the stainless steel case to elevate the luxury feel. Both models measure 39.8mm in diameter and 12.4mm in thickness, housing the Seiko calibre 6RH5 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. This specific movement is the small seconds variant of the 6R series, visible through an exhibition caseback that reveals a gold-colored rotor.

Tributes to the 1895 Timekeeper

While the Laurel is a frequent source of inspiration, the 1895 Timekeeper—Seiko’s first-ever watch—sees a more recent spotlight. The SPB495 model in the Craftsmanship Series pays homage to this pocket watch with elongated Roman numerals over a white enamel dial. This dial is the work of veteran craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team, who have worked with enamel since 1971.

The production process is grueling, involving the firing of enamel glaze at high temperatures in a kiln.

Expanding the Palette: From Indigo to GMT

The Craftsmanship Series isn’t limited to white and black. The collection has expanded to include vibrant colors and new complications.

More recently, Seiko introduced the ‘Ai Iro’ deep blue hue, utilizing a technique called ‘Mizudame’—where water is dripped onto a powdered surface to create organic patterns.

Pushing the functional boundaries of the series, the SPB447 is the first Presage Craftsmanship timepiece to feature a GMT function. It combines a deep black Urushi lacquer dial with gold-tone GMT hands and a 24-hour scale, powered by the in-house 6R54 movement. This model retails for £1,590 GBP (approximately $2,103 USD), according to Hypebeast.

Technical Specifications and Pricing Comparison

Across these models, Seiko maintains a consistent focus on durability and power. The modern series also heavily employs DiaShield or other super-hard coatings to protect the stainless steel cases.

One point of discrepancy exists regarding the dimensions of the SPB403, SPB405, and SPB407. While Seiko’s official specifications suggest the enamel version is slightly thicker (12.1mm versus 11.6mm for lacquered dials), hands-on measurements reported by Fratellowatches found all three models to be identical at 12.1mm.

Seiko’s commitment to these artisanal methods is framed not just as a luxury play, but as a cultural preservation effort.